Low Porosity Hair Care
If you have low porosity hair, the odds are good you were born with it. Our hair's porosity is one of those things that is passed down genetically. While certain behaviors can change our hair's porosity level, it typically becomes more porous, not less.
We'll show you how to take care of low porosity hair and how to tell if you have it in the first place, so you can master your mane day in and day out.
Understanding
What is Low Porosity Hair?
Low porosity hair has a unique structure that affects how it interacts with moisture and products.
If you have low porosity hair, it means your hair cuticles, which are the outermost layer of your hair that lay on top of one another on the hair shaft like shingles on a roof, lay flat and are tightly packed together. The opposite of low porosity hair is high porosity hair, where cuticles are too open and spread apart.
Tightly closed cuticles are good for locking in shine and moisture but not so good for trying to get moisture to penetrate your strands in the first place.
When the cuticles are tightly packed together, it is difficult for outside moisture to get in and for your hair's natural oil to travel down and reach the end of the hair strand. The result can be dehydrated hair with dry frizzy ends. Low porosity can also lead to stunted hair length, breakage, and dullness because natural oils can't reach the bottom of the hair strand.
The Science Behind Low Porosity
Hair porosity is determined by the structure of the cuticle layer, which consists of overlapping scales that protect the inner cortex of the hair shaft. In low porosity hair, these cuticle scales lie flat and tight against the hair shaft, creating a barrier that makes it difficult for moisture and products to penetrate.
This tight cuticle structure is typically genetic, but can also be influenced by factors such as:
- Genetics (the primary factor)
- Hair care practices
- Environmental factors
- Chemical treatments (though these typically increase porosity)
Identification
Low Porosity Hair Characteristics
You can probably tell if you have low porosity hair just by paying attention to how it looks and behaves.
Low porosity hair is often characterized by these qualities:
- Deflects moisture: Water beads up on the hair and takes time to be absorbed
- Prone to product build-up: Products tend to sit on the hair rather than being absorbed
- Dry ends: Natural oils have difficulty traveling down the hair shaft
- Slow to get wet: It takes a long time to get thoroughly wet in the shower
- Slow to dry: Once wet, it takes a long time to air dry
- Resistant to chemical processes: Hair color, perms, or relaxers take longer to process
- Shiny appearance: When healthy, the flat cuticles reflect light well
- Difficulty accepting protein: Protein treatments may leave hair feeling stiff or brittle
How to Test for Low Porosity
There are several simple tests you can perform at home to determine if you have low porosity hair:
The Float Test
- Take a clean strand of hair (one that has naturally fallen out)
- Place it in a glass of water
- Wait 2-4 minutes
- If your hair floats on top, you likely have low porosity hair
The Spray Test
- Take a section of clean, dry hair
- Spray it with water
- If the water beads up and sits on top of your hair rather than being quickly absorbed, you likely have low porosity hair
The Slip 'n Slide Test
- Take a strand of hair between your fingers
- Slide your fingers up the hair shaft (toward the scalp)
- If it feels smooth, you likely have low porosity hair
- If it feels bumpy, you likely have high porosity hair
Treatment
How To Care for Low Porosity Hair
Although it can be tough for your naturally low porosity hair to obtain moisture, it is possible with the right approach.
With the right products in your hair care routine, you can achieve your best hair yet. The chief goal of a low porosity hair care routine is to increase your hair's ability to retain moisture so it's stronger, shinier, healthier, and can get longer.
Here are our top tips for low porosity hair care:
1. Use Lightweight Oils
Because the hair cuticle on low porosity hair is often tightly closed, it's essential to use lightweight products that can get past the cuticle and nourish your hair. Lighter-weight oils such as almond oil, argan oil, and grapeseed oil are great because they can penetrate past the tight cuticles and get deeper into the hair core.
2. Use Heat When Deep Conditioning
Heat is a powerful tool for opening up the hair's cuticle, which is key for those with less porous hair. Before you deep-condition your hair, you need your hair cuticle to be open to reap the benefits. Use warm water to open the cuticle, then apply a deep conditioner. A heat cap or steamer can help keep the cuticles open during treatment.
3. Steam The Hair
Steam is another effective way to apply heat to your hair and open up the cuticle. When water molecules are in vapor form, they are moving more quickly than liquid water molecules and can penetrate your hair more easily. Use steam when applying conditioning or styling products to help them reach the core of the hair.
4. Beware of Protein
Low porosity hair is often protein-sensitive because the cuticles are already tough and tightly packed together. Adding additional protein can cause the hair to become stiff and fragile. Your low porosity hair will be better off with protein-free formulas that focus on moisture instead.
5. Avoid Heavy Products
Heavier hair products such as butters and thick creams can be tough for low porosity hair to absorb. Instead of doing their job, they will sit on top of the hair and feel sticky or thick right away or build up over time. Opt for lighter, water-based products instead.
6. Treat & Prevent Build Up
Due to its difficulty absorbing moisture, low porosity hair is prone to build up. Regular clarifying treatments, such as an Apple Cider Vinegar rinse, can help remove product buildup. Use a gentle clarifying shampoo once every 2-3 weeks to keep your scalp and hair clean.
7. Look for Water-Based Products
Water-based hair products are typically lightweight, so they can easily penetrate even the tightly-bound cuticles of low porosity hair. When looking for products, check if water is listed as the first or second ingredient for a lightweight formula that will work well for your hair type.
8. Avoid Silicones
Silicones form a hydrophobic coating on hair strands that act as a barrier to hydrating and moisturizing ingredients, making it even more difficult for low porosity strands to get moisture. Look for silicone-free products to ensure your hair can absorb the moisture it needs.
9. Swap Your Pillowcase
Tossing and turning on a cotton pillowcase will not only cause strands to tangle and break but also pulls moisture from your hair. Keep all that hard-worked-for moisture intact by sleeping on a satin or silk pillowcase or wearing a satin bonnet to bed.
Products
Best Products for Low Porosity Hair
When you shop for specifically formulated low porosity hair products, you'll notice more significant results.
Shampoos
Look for clarifying, lightweight shampoos that can remove buildup without stripping moisture.
Key Ingredients to Look For:
- Apple Cider Vinegar
- Tea Tree Oil
- Aloe Vera
- Glycerin
Recommended Products:
- Kinky-Curly Come Clean Shampoo
- SheaMoisture Baobab & Tea Tree Oils Low Porosity Protein-Free Shampoo
- Giovanni Tea Tree Triple Treat Shampoo
Conditioners
Opt for lightweight, moisturizing conditioners that won't sit on top of your hair.
Key Ingredients to Look For:
- Honey
- Aloe Vera
- Glycerin
- Lightweight Oils (Argan, Grapeseed)
Recommended Products:
- As I Am Hydration Elation Conditioner
- SheaMoisture Low Porosity Protein-Free Conditioner
- Jessicurl Aloeba Daily Conditioner
Deep Conditioners
Use heat-activated deep conditioners to help open the cuticle and allow moisture to penetrate.
Key Ingredients to Look For:
- Honey
- Glycerin
- Aloe Vera
- Panthenol (Vitamin B5)
Recommended Products:
- TGIN Honey Miracle Hair Mask
- Jessicurl Deep Conditioning Treatment
- Mielle Organics Babassu Oil & Mint Deep Conditioner
Leave-In Conditioners
Choose lightweight, water-based leave-ins that won't cause buildup.
Key Ingredients to Look For:
- Aloe Vera
- Glycerin
- Panthenol
- Lightweight Oils
Recommended Products:
- Kinky-Curly Knot Today
- Giovanni Direct Leave-In
- As I Am Leave-In Conditioner
Oils & Serums
Stick to lightweight oils that can penetrate the hair shaft rather than sitting on top.
Key Ingredients to Look For:
- Argan Oil
- Grapeseed Oil
- Sweet Almond Oil
- Babassu Oil
Recommended Products:
- Mielle Organics Pomegranate & Honey Hair Smoothie
- Verb Ghost Oil
- Moroccanoil Treatment Light
Styling Products
Choose water-based gels and mousses that provide hold without causing buildup.
Key Ingredients to Look For:
- Aloe Vera
- Flaxseed
- Panthenol
- Glycerin
Recommended Products:
- Kinky-Curly Curling Custard
- Uncle Funky's Daughter Curly Magic
- Giovanni LA Natural Gel
Ingredients to Avoid for Low Porosity Hair
- Heavy Butters: Shea butter, cocoa butter, and mango butter in high concentrations
- Heavy Oils: Castor oil, coconut oil, olive oil
- Silicones: Dimethicone, amodimethicone, and other -cones that create a barrier
- Heavy Proteins: Hydrolyzed wheat protein, keratin, collagen in high amounts
- Mineral Oil: Creates a barrier that prevents moisture absorption
- Petrolatum: Petroleum jelly and similar ingredients that seal too tightly
- Beeswax: Too heavy and can cause buildup
- Alcohol: Drying alcohols like SD alcohol, denatured alcohol
Avoid These
Common Mistakes with Low Porosity Hair
Knowing what not to do is just as important as knowing what to do.
Even with the best intentions, many people with low porosity hair make mistakes that can worsen their hair's condition. Here are the most common mistakes to avoid:
1. Using Too Much Product
Since low porosity hair has difficulty absorbing products, using too much can lead to buildup. This buildup can make your hair look dull, feel heavy, and prevent moisture from penetrating the hair shaft. Start with small amounts of product and add more only if needed.
2. Skipping Clarifying Treatments
Low porosity hair is prone to product buildup, which can further seal the cuticle and prevent moisture absorption. Regular clarifying treatments (every 2-3 weeks) are essential to remove this buildup and give your hair a fresh start.
3. Using Cold Water to Wash
Cold water keeps the cuticle closed, which is the opposite of what low porosity hair needs. Always use warm (not hot) water when washing your hair to help open the cuticle and allow moisture and products to penetrate.
4. Overusing Protein Treatments
Low porosity hair typically doesn't need much protein since the cuticle is already strong and compact. Too much protein can make your hair feel stiff, brittle, and more prone to breakage. Opt for moisturizing treatments instead.
5. Using Heavy Products
Heavy butters, oils, and creams often sit on top of low porosity hair rather than being absorbed. This can lead to buildup and a greasy appearance. Stick to lightweight, water-based products that can penetrate the cuticle.
6. Not Using Heat for Deep Conditioning
Without heat, deep conditioners can't effectively penetrate low porosity hair. Always use a heat cap, steamer, or hooded dryer when deep conditioning to help open the cuticle and allow the product to work its magic.
7. Improper Layering of Products
The order in which you apply products matters for low porosity hair. Always start with the lightest, most water-based products and work your way up to heavier ones. This helps ensure that moisture gets into the hair shaft before you seal it in.
Questions
Frequently Asked Questions
Get answers to the most common questions about low porosity hair care.
- Can low porosity hair change to medium or high porosity?
- Yes, hair porosity can change over time due to factors like heat styling, chemical treatments, and environmental damage. Low porosity hair can become more porous with these influences, but it's rare for hair to become less porous naturally. However, proper care can help maintain your hair's current porosity level and health.
- How often should I wash low porosity hair?
- Most people with low porosity hair find that washing 1-2 times per week works well. Washing too frequently can strip the hair of its natural oils, while washing too infrequently can lead to buildup. However, the ideal frequency depends on your lifestyle, scalp condition, and personal preference.
- Is the LOC or LCO method better for low porosity hair?
- For low porosity hair, the LCO (Liquid, Cream, Oil) method is often more effective. This is because applying oil last helps seal in the moisture from the water and cream without creating a barrier that prevents them from penetrating the hair shaft. However, if you use very lightweight oils, the LOC (Liquid, Oil, Cream) method can also work well.
- Can I color my low porosity hair?
- Yes, you can color low porosity hair, but it may require special considerations. Low porosity hair often takes longer to process color due to the tightly closed cuticles. You might need to leave the color on for a longer time (within the safe limits recommended by the manufacturer). After coloring, focus on moisture-rich treatments to counteract any drying effects of the coloring process.
- Why does my low porosity hair take so long to dry?
- Low porosity hair takes a long time to get wet because water has difficulty penetrating the tightly closed cuticles. However, once the water gets in, those same tightly closed cuticles make it difficult for the water to evaporate, resulting in long drying times. To speed up drying, you can use a microfiber towel to remove excess water and a diffuser on low heat if you need to dry your hair more quickly.
- Can low porosity hair benefit from pre-pooing?
- Yes, pre-pooing (applying oil or conditioner to your hair before shampooing) can be beneficial for low porosity hair. It helps protect the hair from the potentially drying effects of shampoo and can add an extra layer of moisture. For low porosity hair, lightweight oils like grapeseed or sweet almond oil work best for pre-pooing.
- Is low porosity hair more prone to certain issues?
- Low porosity hair is particularly prone to product buildup, dryness (especially at the ends), and difficulty accepting color treatments. It may also be more resistant to chemical processes like perms or relaxers. Regular clarifying treatments and proper moisturizing techniques can help manage these issues.
- Can I use coconut oil on low porosity hair?
- Coconut oil is often too heavy for low porosity hair and can sit on top of the hair rather than penetrating it. This can lead to a greasy appearance and product buildup. Most people with low porosity hair find that lighter oils like argan, grapeseed, or sweet almond oil work better. However, if you want to use coconut oil, try applying it to damp hair with heat to help it penetrate.